Assemble mechanical watches. Making a wall clock from cardboard: decoupage and quilling (master class). Useful information about watch movements
It's always nice when something you decorate can be useful and be used in the household. That is why craftsmen and craftswomen of all stripes love to choose watch blanks as a basis for creativity. After the decorating process is completed, all that remains is to select the clock mechanism, assemble it and voila! - the hands began to move and began to count seconds, minutes, hours...
However, this is precisely the moment that can create difficulties for a novice creator. The range of watch mechanisms is large and for the first time it is quite difficult to figure out what a stem is and how to choose suitable diameter and thread height, what is the difference? simple mechanisms from reinforced ones, and, most importantly, in what order should I assemble all these nuts and arrows?..
Let's start to figure it out!
Most of the mechanisms (almost all) presented in various hobby stores are quartz watch movements. They date back to 1957, have high accuracy (plus/minus one second per day) and are perfect for everyday use. Such a mechanism can be called electromechanical type. Once a second, the quartz crystal transmits an impulse to the electronic unit. From there it is transferred to the engine, which pushes the hands. The electronic unit is powered by a conventional AA battery(AA battery).
One of the disadvantages of such a mechanism is that after a few years of use, the crystal loses its properties, and the watch begins to rush. However, this problem is easily solved by purchasing a new mechanism (since the main advantage of quartz watch movements is their inexpensive price) or replacing the crystal in a watch workshop.
Stem and thread height
To choose the right watch mechanism, you need to start from the thickness of the workpiece.
The main parameters that are indicated in the clock mechanism are overall height rod and thread height. After you put the watch base on the stem, the thread should rise above the base a few more turns (about 2-3 mm) so that its height is enough to put the metal washer and tighten the nut.
In the name of the watch movement, the first number is the height of the stem, and the second is the height of the thread (16/9, 18/12, 20/14, etc.).
When purchasing a clock mechanism, it is better to know in advance the thickness of the workpiece that you will decorate in order to select a clock mechanism with a suitable stem height. By the way, don’t forget to take into account the decor itself! The number of layers of primer, paint, varnish and especially relief elements can greatly increase the overall thickness of the workpiece.
Example. We have a 15/6.7 movement. This means that we need to subtract two millimeters from the height of 6.7 (to secure the nut). It turns out that for such a mechanism we can use a workpiece no thicker than 4.7 mm.
Simple and reinforced clock mechanisms and hands
Clock mechanisms can be simple or reinforced.
Reinforced watch movements feature increased torque and use parts made from materials of higher quality. high quality. Such mechanisms are more reliable and are designed to work well with large hands (up to 35 cm, up to 50 cm, and for some manufacturers even up to 1 meter) and bases large diameter. When choosing hands for a clock mechanism, it is important that they match each other! The arrows for regular and reinforced mechanisms are different and are not interchangeable.
If you are going to decorate a piece of rather large diameter, it would be more logical for you to take a closer look at reinforced clock mechanisms and hands.
Quiet: discrete and smooth operation
Clock mechanisms differ in the type of movement of the second hand:
Clock mechanisms with discrete stroke - second hand makes 60 movements per minute, making a characteristic sound when changing each division, the clock is ticking. However, there are so-called “silent” models, the sound of which is almost unnoticeable. It is best to check the clock mechanism upon purchase to assess the degree of its noiselessness. In our showroom you can always ask for a battery and check the clock mechanism :)
Clock mechanisms smooth running- the second hand makes 360 movements per minute and visually it seems that it “floats” smoothly. Such models are called silent, but they still make some sound and this must also be taken into account. In addition, mechanisms of this type cost at least twice as much as discrete ones, and due to the fact that the number of pulses per minute is six times greater, their batteries run out much faster.
Choosing hands for clock mechanisms
Like mechanisms, clock hands can be simple or reinforced. Plain hands are suitable for simple types of mechanisms, while reinforced hands are specifically designed for heavy-duty mechanisms. Arrows can be purchased individually or in sets.
Hands are traditionally hour, minute and second. However, you can ignore the second hand and use a stud instead.
Arrows come in a wide variety of shapes, colors and sizes. The length of the arrow is indicated from the center of the hole to the tip of the arrow.
Sometimes there is a protective sticker on the hands. transparent film- do not forget to remove it before using the arrows.
After the film is removed, the hands can also be decorated, for example, aged with bitumen or painted in a different color.
How to assemble a clock mechanism
So, we have chosen the mechanism, and the hands too. There is very little left: to collect all the parts together and start the clock.
Let's take a step-by-step look at the process of assembling the clock mechanism with photographs.
1. Take the clock mechanism.
2. Put on the metal loop. If you will be using the clock in some other way rather than hanging it on a wall stud, you can skip this step.
3. Put on the rubber washer-gasket.
4. Put on the watch base! We carefully turn all the threads. Sometimes, due to layers of primer, varnish and paint, the hole in the workpiece becomes clogged and the threaded rod does not fit into it. In this case, clean the hole with something sharp, or sand off the excess with sandpaper rolled into a tube.
5. Put on the metal washer.
6. And secure the mechanism by tightening the metal nut.
7. Put on the hour hand.
8. Now put on the minute hand.
9. We put on the second hand or stud-plug.
10. We turn our watch over and insert the battery into the clock mechanism. Ready!
I recently told you... Now I would like to talk about wall ones.
Nowadays it is probably impossible to find a house that does not have watches made in China or India. Wall clock- this is an element of home comfort that practically does not change its appearance. The only thing that wears out in them is the mechanism.
And it often happens that after several years of operation, the appearance is in perfect condition, but the watch either stops working, or is in a hurry and lags behind, or, as is typical for smooth-running mechanisms, begins to literally “eat up” the batteries.
It would be a shame to throw away such a watch, especially if it had a high purchase price or is valuable as a memory. The most reasonable solution is to make repairs wall clock do it yourself and replace the mechanism.
In the example given, we will replace the mechanism by swapping it from another (new, but barbarically broken) watch.
By the way, at any time point you can buy such watches for literally pennies. The advantage is that if the diameter of the hands from the “original” watch does not fit, you can easily install the hands from the broken ones.
Unscrew the bolts of the fastening strip holding the glass.
It all started when, 2 years ago, from a trip to Belarus, I brought my grandfather a locally produced watch from the TROYKA brand as a gift.
This watch has a quartz smooth movement mechanism (abbreviation MPH:)), i.e. The second hand does not click loudly every second, but rather quietly rustles continuously. The watch lasted quite accurately for about 2 months using the supplied salt battery. Well, I replaced it with an alkaline one and the watch stopped working within a month. I replaced it again, again it took about a month. After the 3rd battery change, it became clear that something was wrong. After checking the dead batteries, I realized that they were still very much alive. After consulting with the nearest blogosphere, I found out that such mechanisms cannot be repaired and are easier to throw away. I gave up until one day in Ikea I saw their cheapest watch model and picked it up to see what kind of mechanism it had.
Here they are - the simplest plastic case and plastic glass, paper dial
Suddenly they had exactly the same mechanism installed, and on the sticker there was a mysterious inscription “Made in Belarus” =D 
The price of the unit turned out to be something in the region of 250 rubles, I happily grabbed them and rushed home to dissect them. Replaced the mechanisms. This is not difficult - the arrows are carefully removed from the stem, after which you need to slightly press the latches and remove the mechanism from the case and reassemble it in the reverse order. The Ikea version can be disassembled in just 1 minute, there isn’t even a single bolt.
So, I assembled and installed used batteries in both copies. Surprisingly, both went. I thought that when removing the arrow, something could have been corrected inside the old mechanism. But after about a month of working on a used battery, the electricity consumption began to appear again.
The “repaired” Belarusian watches worked normally, the battery was not consumed before it should have been. But I wouldn’t be me if it all ended happily. Suddenly the watch stopped functioning in its natural vertical position. Only in horizontal! At the same time, the mechanism rotates, but something has moved away somewhere. I shook them and knocked them, no, they don’t come. Then I decided to perform an autopsy.
The autopsy was unsuccessful. The gears kept falling out and I spent the next half hour putting them back together. At the same time, I did not notice any defects by eye. The engine was running, everything was turning. But when assembled, the watch still did not work.
Then for the 3rd time I went to the store for a watch and bought it. I unpacked it at home and found another mechanism inside! I became depressed. On the other hand, it may indeed be previous model there were a lot of marriages. Reassembled, hung, everything works. The move is precise.
And just then I suddenly googled... hand.zhpg
Much has been revealed. To begin with, all mechanisms are universal, i.e. They have the same size, but differ in the length of the rod on which the arrows are mounted. This was done to make it possible to use dials of different thicknesses and it can also be provided for fastening to the dial with a nut on the rod. I even recognized one of the most common models of Chinese mechanisms - this is JL 6262. During the crisis, Chinese stores sell it for about 300 rubles apiece, i.e. in pre-crisis times, the price was quite affordable. With us, I didn’t find anything other than wholesale sales in boxes. One article advertised the GrandTime sweep mechanism in comparison with just this JL 6262. For it, the defect rate is stated to be ≤0.05%, while for JL it is ≥4%, and the accuracy is 1-2 seconds per day. I wonder what percentage of defects I got into... For working mechanisms, the operating time from an alkaline battery should be approximately 8-11 months and the service life of the mechanism should be about 6 years. Somehow not very much. I think many people still have Soviet clocks with discrete mechanisms at home that have been clicking for 30 years.
Thinking about using carcasses from IKEA watches, I, without any special illusions, ordered a mechanism from the Chinese for testing that costs less than $1 (this already includes delivery), but with a longer stem for the nut (you can get a handmade one). And not so long ago this mechanism reached me.
The quality of the plastic is normal. For such a price, I generally expected some kind of horror. Suggest using alkaline batteries 
Stem thread 
Stuck a truly Chinese mechanism into an IKEA watch 
The first surprise was that the mechanism started working from an old battery, which I was about to throw away. But the slightly longer rod did not quite fit under the glass. When lightly pressing the glass from the outside, the second hand stopped. I got out of the situation by not fully inserting the glass into the latches. And so it holds quite firmly. So if you are going to change the mechanism, check if you have enough length.
The second surprise is that the accuracy of this mechanism turned out to be higher than that of my Casio wristwatches!
MK - How to install a quartz watch movement - watch assembly
I make watches, people often buy them from me. I usually give the watch to the buyer personally, or send it by mail. And in this case, one problem always arises - how to pack the watch so that the watch hands do not bend or break. They are quite fragile, they can easily bend if you press on them a little harder, and you yourself know very well how parcels are thrown at us at the post office. As a result, the package turns out to be of a huge format, and all due to the fact that I in cunning ways I try to pack the hands exactly, fix them so that they do not dangle and are protected (foam plastic, bubble cellophane, etc.).
I suggest sending a watch without hands - i.e. remove them and put them separately in a bag. Then the parcel will be smaller in size and the likelihood of the hands breaking is reduced to zero. But, as it turned out, almost 90% have a fear: “Oh, don’t take it off, otherwise I won’t be able to put them back together - it’s difficult, I don’t know how and I’m afraid of breaking it!” Almost everyone has similar words to these words... To be honest, when I assembled the clock mechanism for the first time, I also tinkered with it for half an hour until I took the other clock apart and looked at how everything was put together) . It’s funny when you can and know, but when you don’t, the torment begins.
In the end, I decided to do small PHOTO MK and tell in it, or rather, show how to assemble a clock mechanism, and what some of the tricks are. Now I will send a watch without hands, and send the buyer to this article))), and he will be able to assemble everything himself. And why didn't this thought come to mind earlier...
Let's get started:
1. You have a clock - this is a wooden (or any other) disk, and there is a kit for assembling a quartz clock mechanism.
This set you see in the photo. Typically, arrows are not included in such a set, but are sold separately. Let's assume that we have everything completely and consider the complete set.
The set includes:
- clock mechanism (black square box in the photo) with a stem and thread on it,
- metal loop bracket - for hanging on the wall (the loop is sometimes immediately installed on the body),
- rubber washer,
- golden washer,
- golden nut,
- 3 hands - hour, minute, second.
2. On a square base there is small ledge, I show it with an arrow.
3. We put a metal loop on the rod so that it fits exactly into this ledge. The loop (hole) itself should be at the bottom, as in the photo, do not mix it up, otherwise you will not be able to hang the clock on the wall.
4. Now take the rubber washer - gasket.
5. We put on the rubber washer on the stem - either side.
6. Now string the clock disk onto this assembled structure . The rod must pass through the hole in the disk and come out along with thread! This important point, keep this in mind when you buy a watch movement. Its rod and thread must be of such a size that they (namely the thread) protrude outward by at least 5-6 mm. or even more when installing the mechanism on the disk, otherwise you will not be able to screw the locking nut onto the thread.
Let me give you my specific example:
I use plywood for the disk thickness 8 mm. and 10 mm., I buy the clock mechanism with a stem 22 mm.(its thread is 18 mm.). Mechanism with 18 mm rod. (12mm thread) is not suitable for 8mm plywood thickness. (for 10 mm, even more so), despite the fact that the instructions say that it should fit (for some reason they do not take into account the thickness of the rubber washer and the thickness of the golden washer, and they both add a few more mm to the thickness of the disk itself.). The thread protrudes slightly above the surface, but there is no way to screw a nut onto it at all.
Remember:
Stock 22 (18)
8-10 mm.
Stock 18 (12)
suitable for thick plywood 6 mm. or less.
7. From the back everything looks like this.
8. Prepare a golden washer and nut.
9. First we take the puck.
10. And string the puck on the stock.
11. Then we take nut and screw it onto the thread stock It is necessary to secure the entire structure tightly with a nut. Do everything by hand, no need to resort to pliers!
12. In this photo (made larger) you can clearly see that the thread protrudes slightly above the nut. This is fine. Now, if it were not visible at all, then the nut simply would not be able to screw onto it and the entire structure would fall apart.
13. Now you can put on the arrows.
14. First puts on the hour hand.
Attention! She puts it on TIGHT! Keep this in mind. You need to hold it with two fingers and press them on both sides of the base of the arrow at the same time, otherwise it won’t fit - it has its own place on the rod, its own diameter, it will fit exactly there all the way.
If suddenly the arrow does not want to fit (this often happens, and this is what scares everyone - they think they are doing something wrong), do this - turn it upside down and string it onto the rod in exactly this position. This is how it will definitely fit. The hole drilled in the arrow has a “skirt” and it will stretch a little if you put the arrow on inside out. Then take it off and put it on correctly.
15. Then puts it on minute hand. It’s the same story with her, she also puts on quite tightly. We proceed by analogy with the first arrow. And don't bend the sides at the base of the arrow when you put pressure on it!
16. All that remains is to put on second hand. It is not threaded onto the stem, but is simply inserted from above into the hole in the stem - place it there and press on top with your thumb.
17. That's all. The mechanism is installed.
18. Now we need to check Are all three arrows parallel? relative to each other - otherwise, during rotation, they will catch on each other and... there will be no rotation. The arrows will just get stuck.
19. Let's watch this, collecting all three arrows in one place, and turning the watch to the side. If they touch each other, bend them with your fingers at the base to the desired position.
20. Insert the battery, keeping an eye on + and -. This is written on the mechanism.
21. And... the clock is ready! The arrows began to move - time has passed!
That's the whole secret of assembling a quartz watch movement. And, as you can see, there are still some nuances, and you need to know them so that everything turns out easy and simple. I hope my photos and explanations will help you if you ever make a watch or decide to replace the clock mechanism in an old watch with a new one.
So, we've gone through the first part. We got a little tools. The places where the instrument grows have been explored. We have prepared a workplace for ourselves. And in general - while we were doing all this - we had a good walk through the air and got to know the hot spots and surroundings better. The first part involved quite a lot of movement and attentiveness when hiking - you had to SEARCH. What to look for - FSE! Everything is interesting and, to our still untrained eye, something that can be useful to us and unusual. Somewhat reminiscent of plushness. What is the result:
Tool. Which? First screwdrivers, then tweezers. These include a binocular magnifying glass, brushes, Petri dishes and needles. We got some oil. Yes, at least for sewing machines. Well there is no other. We believe that we have nothing more. NO. All. We make do with this primitive set. But without it, you shouldn’t start.
We collected carcasses of hours.
Different. Old ones. Wrist. We just collected mechanisms for spare parts.
They took indiscriminately, everything that was cheaper than the cost of half a pack of cheap cigarettes. This is their price. Half a pack of Belomor or Prima. Trolleybus fare. They shouldn't cost more. Regardless of the condition - intact or broken. There are only two criteria. The first one is mandatory - not rusty. The second is desirable - that they be assembled (all parts are in place) - regardless of integrity. Trash. Let's sort. What do we have?
Women's wrists.
- Star. Old ones. Barrel-shaped mechanism caliber 18 mm. Allegedly, in prehistoric times the French brought it to us and assembled the LIP plant. So these are all French.
- Zarya- Penza Watch Factory
-Gull- standard small mechanisms, quite old, but durable
- Glory- newer mechanisms
Many other names. All Soviet. USSR. Apparently the state cared about the working class - it produced watches. So that they are not late for work. Maybe.
Men's wrist watch.
- Victory. Moscow. Lighthouse. Many watches were produced under these names. We're not talking about watches. About mechanisms.
There are basically 2 types of mechanisms.
- “high” mechanism - for example 1MChZ - “Moscow”. Central seconds hand. Most watches were assembled at its base, including the famous “Sports”. They stopped when the crown was pulled out. Ersatz stopwatch. Older type of mechanism. We don’t name the technical caliber - there’s no point. It is still impossible to order parts for the caliber.
- “low” mechanism - more modern. Side seconds hand.
In both the first and second cases, different factories produced a bunch of modifications of mechanisms - with improvements, simplifications, rationalizations. Suggestions. There were also a bunch of types of exterior decoration. Satisfied the discerning consumer.
In addition, there is a complete rainbow of other watch movements:
Slava - 2 types of mechanisms, self-winding and non-self-winding. It was indicated somewhere on the Internet that it was a prototype of LIP-T-15. The French again.
Complicated watch
With alarm clock
Chronometer
For the blind
Our task is to learn how to disassemble and assemble. Then everyone will go their own way. One will only disassemble. Another will collect 50% and then - as they get bored or peacefully throw it in the trash (usually habits - vodka-dancing will overpower), others - out of anger that it doesn’t work out - hit the anvil with a hammer. Still others will calmly take it apart again, put it aside for a couple of days and try again. This is a normal form of behavior for such an unusual hobby - precision mechanics.
Let's start with a simpler direction - men's wristwatches. They are larger than women's ones. You can see them better without a microscope. An example is “low” Victory. For us it is the simplest. “High” is more difficult for the first time. The clock circuit is basically identical for all single-platinum watches. Therefore, you just need to understand and remember a few is enough simple circuits. For the first training, just sketch what we are analyzing.
Frame:
Back cover.
There are several types of back covers. The only difference is in the manner of closing.
Slamming. A distinctive feature is that usually, upon careful examination, you can find a flat into which the knife is driven in order to open it with strong pressure. In modern electronic consumer goods, a similar lid is very often practiced, but with grooves as if for unscrewing - a good joke. If you don’t know, then at least shoot yourself - you won’t be able to unscrew it.
A flat in the glass ring. This is not a cover.
More modern solution- protrusion in the lid.
And the knife just drives in here
Screw, with a screw ring or with a thread on the lid itself.
Or so - edges are visible along the edge of the lid.
We unscrew the first option either with the largest tailor's scissors (they are tougher) or with the sharpened jaws of an old caliper. At flea markets, keys like this can often be found lying around in debris.
The branded key (purchased in the most ordinary store for modellers - models of steam locomotives, cars, etc. in Germany) looks like this.
A rather rare option in Soviet watches is a bayonet mount. It turns at a slight angle and opens.
Bayonet lock on the lid
So, the clock was opened. What we see is dirt.
Lots of dirt. We immediately say that we will not deal with rusty watches. There's no chance. Nothing can be done - everything must be changed. Install a new one or sharpen a new one. It's too early for us.
Main parts of the mechanism
I - balance.
II - Wheel system
III - mainspring (maybe two - in Slava)
IV - ratchet - there can also be several types.
What we do first - while the mechanism is in the case - lower the mainspring. If the head is preserved in the carcass and can be turned (it is worn down to the base), we try to turn it slightly towards the factory and look at the ratchet. It should turn slightly and slip a couple of teeth. This is what we need - we use a needle to support it in the retracted state and, without jerking, let the crown turn and release the spring, slightly releasing the crown between the fingers.
Immediately place at least 2 Petri dishes in front of you. Or white plates or dishes with a smooth, flat bottom. Diameter 15-20 cm. I use Petri dishes. They are easier to cover during breaks.
We take out the crown. To do this, you need to press the latch with a needle.
We take the mechanism out of the case. Sometimes this is done towards the back cover. In our case it is the other way around. The ring with glass is removed and the mechanism is pulled out to the side of the dial.
We remove the arrows
A minute in general is simple - even with a screwdriver
Hours and seconds are already a bit of an adventure. Tool - a piece was torn out of the relay (there was some kind of electric relay - the material on the contact groups is exactly what we need - hard and thin. Folded it - and there is the tool we need)
Unscrew the balance. The size (caliber) of the screwdriver must match the size of the screw.
The screw was unscrewed and how can this whole assembly be lifted? - and it usually has special grooves into which you can insert a screwdriver and separate the balance plate from the base.
We take the balance like this.
We gradually put everything into Petri dishes.
Unscrew the screws of the mainspring block. There is one trick in the watch - if the screw has many grooves, it means it has a left-hand thread.
Under the dial there is an assembly of hand wheels (I) and an assembly for winding and moving the crown from the winding position to the position for moving the hands (II) (scientifically called a remontoire). Let's sort it out.
We are filming a minute trib. This is the only unit in the watch where force is required. Pull hard enough. If we missed it, we'll repeat it. It always comes off with effort. The main thing is not to be afraid.
When disassembling the pointer shift assembly (repair), pay special attention to the spring.
It has a nasty property - it clicks and flies away in an unknown direction. There is a simple trick against this - we cover (press) it all lightly with just a finger and carefully “snap” it out from under the finger with a needle.
We put everything in a Petri dish
Now for the longest and neatest part. Washing.
We take a shallow bowl. We pour gasoline there. And wash it. Brush and toothpicks. To shine. So that no dirt remains.
For small mechanisms - a squirrel brush. Tougher. For large mechanisms - alarm clocks, pocket watches - you can try soft art brushes for oil paints.
Dry: first put it on a paper napkin after the gasoline. I usually take a piece of heavy cardboard and place a piece of paper towel on it. So that it does not jump and jump. Select napkins and towels according to the criterion - the less lint, the better.
Let the gasoline soak in. Let's just put it there. Then we take the parts with tweezers and blow air from a rubber bulb (enema) to blow gasoline out of the holes. And so, in sequence, all the elements of the clock that lie in a Petri dish or on an improvised “drying rack”. Knot by node. What we mean is this: if you unscrew the platinum and with it - 3 screws - put them together. We consider “this is our node.” So as not to confuse screws and parts. We put them in the same places in the Petri dish. Or better yet, into a clean cup. The old one will then be washed and wiped. This is if we don’t expect to collect it quickly. Or we collect it “from the sheet” - from a napkin. But this is subject to a certain experience, skill and speed of work. Balance. While we don’t have much experience, we don’t analyze it. So we push the platinum-spiral-balance block into a bath of gasoline and simply rinse it in gasoline for a long time. Clearly this is wrong. Everything needs to be taken apart, etc. - WE DO NOT HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE YET. We'll gut it for 5-10 hours, and then we'll look at the balance. How he understands it. Read books. And do it according to wise books (if it is described in detail there).
A note about the mainspring. We don't do anything. Just wipe the outside with a napkin. We clean the teeth with a brush. We're not doing anything else for now. We'll have fun with disassembly, lubrication, assembly and spring replacement next time. No experience yet. It's difficult.
And now more intellectual work - to assemble the resulting puzzle
Everything is done in the following order:
Mainspring
Wheel system. Let's have a little fun too. We placed the gears in the lower stones. They covered it with the platinum, and then we need to move the upper platinum in all directions with tweezers until the upper axes of the gears hit the stones. A little tedious, but doable. Sometimes you can try to help the process with a thin needle to move the gears that you can reach. The basic rule is NO VIOLENCE. Everything should be done without any effort. Everything by itself “clicks” into place over time and the plate noticeably “falls” down. A clock mechanism is a rather thin thing, the forces are very small, the loss of forces during operation is also very small, accordingly, it cannot be assembled on tight fits - THEY CANNOT BE BY DEFINITION. If the upper platinum does not sit in place, the gear is not seated in the stones. Or while we were moving all this, it jumped out of the lower stone. We repeat once again - THERE CANNOT BE EFFORT! The criterion for correct assembly may be the following: slightly turn the mainspring drum. ONLY SLIGHTLY - all gears should start to turn. This is all - almost effortlessly on the winding drum.
Putting the anchor plug in place
Let's put the balance in place.
Lubricate the stones from above - from the side of the back cover. To do this, we use homemade oil dosage.
We turn the mechanism over and lubricate all the stones on the dial side. Assembling the crown mechanism.
Spring. Another adventure. We press it all with a wide screwdriver. We thread the needle into place. Springs are probably the most disgusting thing in all this work. They're galloping. And we will suffer with them a) until we train our hands and b) until we collect carcasses of watches from which we will drag spare parts without a twinge of conscience.
They put it in place. We're not breathing. What if he jumps out?
Assembling the arrow wheels. We firmly press the minute tube onto the gear axis. How? Yes, whatever comes to hand is approximately suitable. That's how we filmed it and we'll put it on. We resist. You will have to press the trib hard until it clicks.
Lubricate. What is there to lubricate - if you have assembled this puzzle - figured it out - then you will also have to think about lubrication and lubricate it yourself. The basic rule is to lubricate only with oil dosage and to a minimum. All rubbing parts are lubricated. Platinum must be dry. That's why it's a recess in the stones - so that the oil doesn't spread beyond it. We do not lubricate the stones of the anchor fork. It's too early. A microscope is needed.
We set the dial.
We put the mechanism into the housing.
Press the crown lock and put it in place. Let's start it up. Let's enjoy it. DONE!!! YOURSELF!!!
Bogdan Yasinetsky
