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How to get rid of old raspberries in the garden. How to permanently get rid of raspberries on your property. Removing young growth

Since childhood, I have not liked picking raspberries. Especially when young shoots grow from the root, and raspberries often have a lot of them. Why does this happen, and what to do with the tender but already prickly green shoots?

Scientists believe that growth of shoots can occur for several reasons:

* reaction to damage to the root system;
* one of viral infections(overgrowth or bushy dwarfism);
* the raspberries are left to their own devices, and they will turn into shapeless dense thickets.

What to do in this or that case?

First of all, cut off the excess growth, leaving it only within the row at 10 cm intervals and observe the plants throughout the season.

Discipline your plantings. To do this, beat off the borders of the raspberry tree with an impenetrable barrier dug to a depth of 30–40 cm (a wide border tape, scraps of iron, slate or plastic). At the same time, you need to decide how you would like to see the raspberries - in the form of bushes or rows. After this, cut off excess branches and shoots that fall out of this system to the ground: 10–12 shoots are left for each bush, linear meter row - up to 25 pieces. Build suitable supports and tie the stems to them.

Young raspberry shoots that appear during the growing season must be removed. Extra shoots will take away more than half of the bush nutrients. This will weaken the plant and reduce yield. Under no circumstances should excess shoots be pulled out of the soil or dug up. It is enough to carefully cut at the root near the soil so that there is no stump left where infection can get.

Spring pruning

This should be done after removing broken, infected and weakened shoots. Only then will you have a complete picture of the raspberry tree after wintering, and you will be able to decide how many and which young shoots to leave.

The distance between adjacent rows should be about two meters, between individual bushes - 1.5 meters. If there are too many raspberry shoots, they will shade each other and will not receive required quantity nutrients.

Summer pruning

For successful cultivation Raspberries require constant care. Don't forget about this in the summer.

At this time, special attention must be paid to the young shoots, because sometimes they deplete the raspberries more than the weeds.

Autumn pruning

At favorable conditions And good care Over the summer, up to 20 shoots of good fruit-bearing shoots can grow from one garden raspberry root.

Raspberries are pruned in autumn 2-3 weeks before the onset of cold weather. At the same time, two-year-old stems that have served their purpose are cut out from raspberries, without leaving stumps, and all well-developed shoots are left; in the spring, the best 8–10 shoots per bush or 10–12 per linear meter of row will be selected.

How to get rid of raspberry shoots Yes, raspberries sometimes really “torture” gardeners with their offspring: they will suddenly appear on a carrot bed, then in the center of a currant bush, or on a neighboring plot. F.H. Khalilov from Tatarstan, it seems to him, has found a way out. He plants raspberries with row spacing of 2 m. He marks the selected area with pegs. Then, along a cord, he digs a trench 50 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep. The length of the trench is equal to the length of the raspberry patch, and the number of trenches is the number of rows. The gardener fills the trench with a specially prepared nutrient mixture. Place rotted manure or compost at the bottom in a layer of 5-6 cm, then evenly scatter 150-200 g of double superphosphate, 60-70 g of potassium sulfate or potassium chloride per 1 m. mineral fertilizers You can add nitrophoska or nitroammophoska. It is very good to add 300-400 g of wood ash, also per 1 m2. Sprinkle 5-7 cm of soil on this mixture and mix everything well with a shovel. Thus, at the bottom of the trench there is a nutrient layer 10-12 cm thick, concentrated and containing many mineral salts. It should not come into contact with the roots young seedling. Therefore, F.Kh. Khalilov pours 10-12 cm of soil taken out of the trenches and compacts it slightly. To fill the top (20-25 cm) layer of the trench after planting a seedling, prepare a mixture consisting of soil, 1 bucket of humus and compost, 50 g of superphosphate, 10-12 g of potassium sulfate or potassium chloride and 100 g of ash per 1 m2. Such careful preparation of the planting trench is, of course, labor-intensive, but it facilitates subsequent care of raspberries and helps increase productivity. Then, to prevent the growth of raspberries, the gardener vertically places insulating barriers made of various available materials along the edges of the trench along its entire length: pieces of slate, roofing felt, plastic film. Raspberry shoots appear from a depth of no more than 20-25 cm, and if the lower edge of the barrier is at a depth of 28-30 cm, the shoots will not be able to overcome it. The feeding roots will spread freely over the entire area of ​​the row spacing, easily passing under the barrier, the upper edge of which protrudes 5-7 cm above the ground. This allows you to make a recess - a gutter for ease of watering and applying liquid fertilizers. The gardener makes the barrier carefully, without leaving any cracks or holes, otherwise the raspberry shoots will find them and go outside the trench. Before planting, a cord is pulled along the center line of the trench and raspberries are placed next to it with a distance in a row of 60 cm to 1 m, depending on the method of further formation. Yu. Zelenin. “My secrets” I willingly reveal. After ten years of growing raspberries, I decided that mulch in the form of a black film was harmful to the roots. They rise and, after removing the mulching material, find their death under the scorching rays of the sun. And if you don’t remove the mulch, then it sprouts through and through with excessively long, branched, thick, beard-like roots (under the black film, in my opinion, not best place for roots to inhabit), and if you fertilize and water the plants well, then the branches begin to stretch, setting records worthy of the Guinness Book. For example, one of my branches of the Gloria variety reached a height of 3 m 25 cm. There is nothing good about this. After all, stocky bushes produce the maximum yield. In my opinion, it is also better for the roots to be in heavy loam and be stocky than to stretch out in the mulch. Under no circumstances, under any circumstances, do I loosen the soil in a raspberry field! I don’t even pull the grass or touch the shoots, so as not to loosen the ground, but I remove them with pruning shears. It is best to fertilize by spraying nutrient solutions into the root zone. With a separate cultivation scheme after harvesting, I break the usual rules, namely: I leave the bushes to vegetate until the leaves fall and only then cut them out and take them out of the area. Offshoots and shoots in the spring should also be allowed to “work” to form roots, and removed when they begin to cast a shadow on the fruiting raspberries of both the first and second years. I do not allow the offspring to form new bushes, except when the main plant falls out. Less crowding, more light on each leaf - and you will have a fabulous harvest.

Ecology of life: Yes, raspberries sometimes really “torment” gardeners with their offspring: they will suddenly appear in a carrot bed, then in the center of a currant bush, or on a neighboring plot.

Yes, raspberries sometimes really “torture” gardeners with their offspring: they will suddenly appear in a carrot bed, then in the center of a currant bush, or on a neighboring plot. F.H. Khalilov from Tatarstan, it seems to him, has found a way out. He plants raspberries with row spacing of 2 m. He marks the selected area with pegs. Then, along a cord, he digs a trench 50 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep. The length of the trench is equal to the length of the raspberry patch, and the number of trenches is the number of rows. The gardener fills the trench with a specially prepared nutrient mixture.

Place rotted manure or compost at the bottom in a layer of 5-6 cm, then evenly scatter 150-200 g of double superphosphate, 60-70 g of potassium sulfate or potassium chloride per 1 m. Instead of these mineral fertilizers, you can add nitrophoska or nitroammophoska. It is very good to add 300-400 g of wood ash, also per 1 m2. Sprinkle 5-7 cm of soil on this mixture and mix everything well with a shovel. Thus, at the bottom of the trench there is a nutrient layer 10-12 cm thick, concentrated and containing many mineral salts.

It should not come into contact with the roots of the young seedling. Therefore, F.Kh. Khalilov pours 10-12 cm of soil taken out of the trenches and compacts it slightly. To fill the top (20-25 cm) layer of the trench after planting a seedling, prepare a mixture consisting of soil, 1 bucket of humus and compost, 50 g of superphosphate, 10-12 g of potassium sulfate or potassium chloride and 100 g of ash per 1 m2. Such careful preparation of the planting trench is, of course, labor-intensive, but it facilitates subsequent care of raspberries and helps increase productivity.

Then, to prevent the growth of raspberries, the gardener vertically places insulating barriers made of various available materials along the edges of the trench along its entire length: pieces of slate, roofing felt, plastic film. Raspberry shoots appear from a depth of no more than 20-25 cm, and if the lower edge of the barrier is at a depth of 28-30 cm, the shoots will not be able to overcome it. The feeding roots will spread freely over the entire area of ​​the row spacing, easily passing under the barrier, the upper edge of which protrudes 5-7 cm above the ground. This allows you to make a recess - a gutter for ease of watering and applying liquid fertilizers. The gardener makes the barrier carefully, without leaving any cracks or holes, otherwise the raspberry shoots will find them and go outside the trench.

Before planting, a cord is pulled along the center line of the trench and raspberries are placed next to it with a distance in a row of 60 cm to 1 m, depending on the method of further formation.

Yu. Zelenin. “My secrets” I willingly reveal. After ten years of growing raspberries, I decided that mulch in the form of a black film was harmful to the roots. They rise and, after removing the mulching material, find their death under the scorching rays of the sun. And if you don’t remove the mulch, then it sprouts through with exorbitantly long, branched, thick roots like a beard (under a black film, in my opinion, is not the best place for roots to live), and if you fertilize and water the plants well, then the branches begin to stretch out, setting records worthy of the Guinness Book. For example, one of my branches of the Gloria variety reached a height of 3 m 25 cm. There is nothing good about this. After all, stocky bushes produce the maximum yield. In my opinion, it is also better for the roots to be in heavy loam and be stocky than to stretch out in the mulch.

Under no circumstances, under any circumstances, do I loosen the soil in a raspberry field! I don’t even pull the grass or touch the shoots, so as not to loosen the ground, but I remove them with pruning shears. It is best to fertilize by injecting nutrient solutions into the root zone.

With a separate cultivation scheme after harvesting, I break the usual rules, namely: I leave the bushes to vegetate until the leaves fall and only then cut them out and take them out of the area. Offshoots and shoots in the spring should also be allowed to “work” to form roots, and removed when they begin to cast a shadow on the fruiting raspberries of both the first and second years. I do not allow the offspring to form new bushes, except when the main plant falls out. Less crowding, more light on each leaf - and you will have a fabulous harvest. published

How to get rid of raspberry shoots

Yes, raspberries sometimes really “torment” gardeners with their offspring: they will suddenly appear on a carrot bed, then in the center of a currant bush, or on a neighboring plot. F.H. Khalilov from Tatarstan, it seems to him, has found a way out. He plants raspberries with row spacing of 2 m. He marks the selected area with pegs. Then, along a cord, he digs a trench 50 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep. The length of the trench is equal to the length of the raspberry patch, and the number of trenches is the number of rows. The gardener fills the trench with a specially prepared nutrient mixture.

Place rotted manure or compost at the bottom in a layer of 5-6 cm, then evenly scatter 150-200 g of double superphosphate, 60-70 g of potassium sulfate or potassium chloride per 1 m. Instead of these mineral fertilizers, you can add nitrophoska or nitroammophoska. It is very good to add 300-400 g of wood ash, also per 1 m2. Sprinkle 5-7 cm of soil on this mixture and mix everything well with a shovel. Thus, at the bottom of the trench there is a nutrient layer 10-12 cm thick, concentrated and containing many mineral salts.

It should not come into contact with the roots of the young seedling. Therefore, F.Kh. Khalilov pours 10-12 cm of soil taken out of the trenches and compacts it slightly. To fill the top (20-25 cm) layer of the trench after planting a seedling, prepare a mixture consisting of soil, 1 bucket of humus and compost, 50 g of superphosphate, 10-12 g of potassium sulfate or potassium chloride and 100 g of ash per 1 m2. Such careful preparation of the planting trench is, of course, labor-intensive, but it facilitates subsequent care of raspberries and helps increase productivity.

Then, to prevent the growth of raspberries, the gardener vertically places insulating barriers made of various available materials along the edges of the trench along its entire length: pieces of slate, roofing felt, plastic film. Raspberry shoots appear from a depth of no more than 20-25 cm, and if the lower edge of the barrier is at a depth of 28-30 cm, the shoots will not be able to overcome it. The feeding roots will spread freely over the entire area of ​​the row spacing, easily passing under the barrier, the upper edge of which protrudes 5-7 cm above the ground. This allows you to make a recess - a gutter for ease of watering and applying liquid fertilizers. The gardener makes the barrier carefully, without leaving any cracks or holes, otherwise the raspberry shoots will find them and go outside the trench.

Before planting, a cord is pulled along the center line of the trench and raspberries are placed next to it with a distance in a row of 60 cm to 1 m, depending on the method of further formation.

Yu. Zelenin. “My secrets” I willingly reveal. After ten years of growing raspberries, I decided that mulch in the form of a black film was harmful to the roots. They rise and, after removing the mulching material, find their death under the scorching rays of the sun. And if you don’t remove the mulch, then it sprouts through with exorbitantly long, branched, thick roots like a beard (under a black film, in my opinion, is not the best place for roots to live), and if you fertilize and water the plants well, then the branches begin to stretch out, setting records worthy of the Guinness Book. For example, one of my branches of the Gloria variety reached a height of 3 m 25 cm. There is nothing good about this. After all, stocky bushes produce the maximum yield. In my opinion, it is also better for the roots to be in heavy loam and be stocky than to stretch out in the mulch.

Under no circumstances, under any circumstances, do I loosen the soil in a raspberry field! I don’t even pull the grass or touch the shoots, so as not to loosen the ground, but I remove them with pruning shears. It is best to fertilize by injecting nutrient solutions into the root zone.

With a separate cultivation scheme after harvesting, I break the usual rules, namely: I leave the bushes to vegetate until the leaves fall and only then cut them out and take them out of the area. Offshoots and shoots in the spring should also be allowed to “work” to form roots, and removed when they begin to cast a shadow on the fruiting raspberries of both the first and second years. I do not allow the offspring to form new bushes, except when the main plant falls out. Less crowding, more light on each leaf - and you will have a fabulous harvest.

Useful video for gardeners

Beds for raspberries.

I found some tips for gardeners for you.

Some plant species, especially berry bushes raspberries or wild grapes are distinguished by a powerful root system. Growing throughout the area of ​​the garden allocated for them, they move further, rapidly filling the neighboring territories. Such “occupation” often interferes and forces you to look for a way to get rid of raspberries on your site forever.

The need to get rid of raspberry bushes arises for various reasons. The main ones:

• old or fungal-damaged shrubs with low yield readings;
• the desire to move the raspberry garden to a new location;
• suppression of growth and fruiting of other crops by raspberries;
• clearing the site for construction and others.

It happens that raspberries move from neighboring areas and interfere with the normal cultivation of garden or garden plants. The roots of the crop grow quickly, are distinguished by their vitality and unpretentiousness; if they are not dealt with, they can destroy the rest of the vegetation.

Owners who grow raspberries know that for a normal berry harvest, it is advisable to change the planting location every 5-7 years. To ensure that the previous plot is not empty after the plant is transferred, it is planted with another crop. But since even a small root in the ground quickly produces new growth, it is important to get rid of raspberry residues.

Eliminate raspberries using one or a combination of methods:

• digging up the area and uprooting the roots;
• use of chemical herbicides;
• covering the area with insulation;
• fencing the territory;
• folk remedies.

The choice of method depends on the subsequent use of the treated area.

Complete physical removal of the top and root parts of the plant is the main method of breeding raspberries. Without it, it is difficult to cope with the growth. Uprooting raspberries involves digging up the area, which requires a comfortable shovel with a long blade and a sufficient amount of free time.

It is important to take into account the fact that you will have to dig up the soil at least 2-3 times, since it will not be possible to remove small roots in one go. The technique can be used at any time of the year, with the exception of winter due to the inconvenience and hardness of the soil.

For effectiveness, it is recommended to carry out the first uprooting early spring after the snow melts, when the ground softens. Then, by the end of spring or summer months, the remaining roots will give rise to superficial growth and the procedure will be repeated. Within a year it will be possible to get rid of raspberries on the site.

The uprooting process proceeds according to the following scheme:

• the tops of the raspberries are cut off with pruning shears or a hatchet at a height of 15-20 cm above the ground (for convenient removal of the roots);
• a shovel is used to dig up the area deeply;
• underground parts are removed manually;
• the soil is crushed to remove roots.

If there is not enough time to breed raspberries, then one of the above methods is used. This is the use of chemical herbicides, covering the area or traditional methods.

Application chemicals justified in the case of allocation of land for further development or other domestic needs. You will have to pickle the raspberries 2-3 times. The soil after such procedures becomes unsuitable for growing other plant crops.

The bush and soil are treated with herbicides, but it is more effective to pre-cut the tops at ground level.

The fact is taken into account that digging up the soil is indispensable. The herbicide destroys the central rhizome, but small shoots will remain and will soon break out. Another method is to combine uprooting and subsequent application of chemicals to the dug up soil.

To eradicate raspberries, they use a continuous action weed and shoot killer called Roundup. The drug is considered strong and effective, but 2-3 repeated treatments of the area will have to be done. Alternative options analogues such as Alaz, Tornado, Hurricane, Glifovit are considered.

If raspberries grow in the adjacent area, but the neighbors do not plan to get rid of them, it is recommended to install a special fence. For this purpose it is used:

• solid insulating material;
• cordon of some plant species.

Raspberry roots are able to break through fragile materials (roofing felt, for example). For fencing the site, preference is given to sheets of slate or rubber tires from a car.

Limiters are buried in the soil along the perimeter of the growth of berry plantings in order to protect other garden or garden crops. Other uses: protection own plot from the roots of a neighboring raspberry.

The depth of the vertical room of the insulator layers is 60-70 cm. Values ​​up to 100 cm are allowed so that the raspberry roots do not pass under the border.

Another popular option is to plant sorrel, corn, parsley or garlic bushes along the growth cordon. Raspberries do not like such a neighborhood and will not cross the plants. Green manure fertilizers effectively suppress the growth of young raspberry shoots.

A method for removing raspberries from a plot without hassle is to use salt or vinegar. But this method is recommended only if there are no subsequent plantings on the territory. The substances will make the soil unsuitable for growing plants; it is advisable to use them before construction.

The recommended time for carrying out the technique is the end of autumn (before winter). Salt and vinegar are added after digging the area or on the bud between the thickets. The salt layer is 0.4-0.5 cm; an alternative is a saline or vinegar solution for thoroughly watering the soil of the raspberry growing area.

If there is free time, to get rid of the root system and young growth, cover the area with dense materials (slate or rubber will do). It is easy to remove raspberries from the garden forever if you cover the area with such insulation in the spring.

The upper part of the raspberry is cut off at the root (the soil is also dug up), the materials are laid out on the ground, pressed tightly and fixed. Without access to the sun next year You can remove raspberries from the garden forever.

To protect neighboring plants from root and above-ground growths of raspberries without removal, it is recommended to fertilize the area under the bushes with fertilizers in the spring. If there is a sufficient amount of nutrients, the raspberry plant does not need to search for them in neighboring areas. It has been noticed that when nitrogen fertilizing is applied to the soil in the fall, much less young growth appears in the spring.

Anyone who is looking for a way to grow raspberries so that they do not grow on the site or move to neighboring plantings needs to know what will need to be done physical strength. With the help of pesticides or aggressive substances, the crop is removed faster, but irreparable damage is caused to the soil. Therefore, it is difficult to do without several approaches to digging up and uprooting raspberry thickets.